General Info
The Dachsteingruppe is a spectacular limestone massif rising to 3000m. It is located about an hours drive south east of Salzburg in Austria. Traditionally, the British expeditions have been based in the hills at around the 1800-2000m height. Exploration is not easy here, but many of the caves discovered have reached depths of around 600-800m (including BEC/NCC finds: Bärengasse-Windschacht, Jäger Höhle, Orkan Höhle, Eisternenhohle). In the last two years, attention has been focused on G5 (Eisturnenhohle), which has been pushed to -620m. It has now been de-rigged, and there are no plans for an immediate return. Up until recently, Austria boasted the deepest cave in the world. The Dachstein certainly has the potential for exceptionally deep caves.
At valley level, near the picturesque village of Hallstatt, the master cave "Hirlatzhohle" has been explored by the local Hallstatt caving club to over 85km with 1041m depth range: currently 14th longest and 49th deepest in the world.
We are going to mount another expedition to the Dachstein in the first two weeks of August, but with a different emphasis to previous trips. We have been invited by the local cavers to explore the Hirlatzhohle itself, which is a great honour in exploration terms. There are two possible sites of interest for us; the first area in question is the Schwabenland, the oldest and highest point in the system. At its southern end there are two undescended/unclimbed aven/pitch combinations: wet and windy. It is hoped that after a drop/climb the horizontal passages continue. Work here will necessitate a long, hard carry through complex passage, establishing a camp, and still face the prospect of more difficult caving to reach the limit of exploration. The second area within the cave that we may wish to look at is the Absturzschacht, far into the eastern end. Exploration here has reached a 40m high aven that has almost been climbed to the top, but still requires some more work in order to traverse around to follow the draught. Due to the nature of the cave, and the logistical demands that trips here will place on the expedition, it does not seem a realistic option to tackle more than one of these sites. A well-stocked camp would be necessary at both the southern and the eastern ends of the cave. It seems likely that we will be concentrating on the Schwabenland project.
We have also been invited to explore a number of other sites higher up on the hills. These include the following:
Schonberghohle (about 1 hours walk from the Krippenstein cable car station). Several hours of caving to reach a point 200 metres deep with an undescended 200m deep pitch. This has been described as being wet and draughty, and the previous explorers nearly died of exposure.
On the plateau above Schwabenland (Hirlatzhohle) are a number of caves which were ice-blocked when they were discovered and surveyed (about 10 years ago). One of these was visited a few years ago and the ice sump was gone, but the caver in question had no kit with him. It is vital to check these caves out if we get the opportunity, and this could be done by anyone.
Accommodation: In previous years we have been based at the Weisberghaus, a mountain refuge/hotel that was run by caver-friendly hosts. There has been a change of management since last year, and we are currently uncertain of the situation. However, due to the geographical location of many of the places that we wish to explore, we will probably find that the Weisberghaus is not ideal anyway. For once, we shall be based in a camp site in the valley, allowing us to reach the Hirlatzhohle with relative ease.
Not everyone will need a tent, but several weeks of sharing can be quite harsh! Make sure that you arrange your accommodation before you leave the U.K. Personally, I'll be opting for a cheap and nasty B & Q-type of tent for the valley, and saving my "Stealth" tent for the hills. May even go for the beardy caver approach, and take a deck chair and slippers on this one: just because I'll be caving with students doesn't mean that I have to live like one! I may be able to dig out a large family-type tent to use as a storage/cooking base.
Those teams intending to push or prospect higher up in the mountains will need to take light-weight camping kit with them. Any serious exploration of Schonberghohle , though, will possibly need a more permanent base in the hills. Would suggest that decent sleeping bags are taken (3 season plus), as the weather can be very fickle. Thermarests are good, but karrimats are adequate.
Obviously a degree of common sense is required as to what kit is needed other than caving gear. Think of this as being a combination walking/caving holiday (although not really the sort of thing that your average rambler would enjoy!). You'll need enough equipment to get you from the car to the top of a mountain, then down the cave, and then into the local pub. Full walking gear is essential (boots, rucksack, warm clothes etc...), as well as travelling clothes. Smart dress is optional.....
Caves are cold in Austria : approx 2 degrees c, and pitches can be wet from spray. Caving Kit = Full SRT kit including small pulley, donkey's dick, and personal tackle bag. A good helmet with expedition carbide and electric backup, thermals with a furrysuit (or alpinex or fleecesuit or buffalo suit), with oversuit (PVC preferred) + caving gloves. Thermal balaclava and under gloves are essential. Austrian caves react fast to heavy rain; some pitches can become impassable therefore a survival bag is essential +whistle+ penknife + hotpacks +emergency snacks. Underground brew kits are vital, but would like to think that the more experienced ones amongst us will already have them. Will need one per team. Suggest we all use the same method of cooking for this? Epigas seems to be pretty popular, but any other thoughts are welcome. For those newcomers, brew kits generally involve a light-weight stove and pan, as well as tea, soup etc... Vegetarian cavers take packs of bean feast and mashed potato with them, allowing for easy conversion of carnivores!
The expedition purchased four sets of underground camping gear for last year's expedition, which we may wish to consider using for this years project. This consists of four sleeping bags, four bivvy bags (although one was nicked), and some cooking kit. I say that we may wish to consider using it because I'm not convinced that it's necessarily up to the job. The sleeping bags are pretty cheap and nasty (and no good for non-midgets), and at least one was damaged. The bivvy bags turned out to be a total waste of money (thank you, Daleswear), and just ensured that the occupants stayed damp and cold. My recollection of the Hirlatzhohle is that it's a very cold, draughty cave, and I'm intending to splash out and buy a nice, toasty synthetic bag for underground camping. This hopefully means that I won't need to bring as much in the way of extra clothing to sleep in. Is it worth loaning the expo bags to people without their own for surface/hill use?
Those people hoping to camp underground* will obviously need to plan accordingly. That is to say, make sure that you've got the necessary items of gear. This may include items such as Ortlieb waterproof sacks, plenty of electric back-up lighting, suitable tackle bags, bin bags, Daren drums, carbide containers, Sub-Zero/Alpinex suits etc...
At the end of the 2000 trip, we removed everything from the Weisberghaus and relocated it in the local caving club hut. A fully itemised list of stores will be available soon (Mike?). There are old stocks of dehydrated food, ropes of varying thickness and vintage, hangers, maillons, pitons etc... Food needs to be purchased in the UK or en route prior to arrival in Halstaat: the village is notoriously expensive due to the tourist trade. There is a caving/camping shop in the area, but best only to visit in case of emergencies. Suggest you bring loads of meths for trangias or whatever you use. Worth bringing plenty of underground food as well.
*Plans: I'm in fairly regular contact with Peter Hubner, our vital German link to the Austrian cavers. The gist of the last conversation was this: we are planning on arriving in the area over the weekend of the 28/29th July. We need to make sure that someone capable is about for the Saturday or Sunday to go for a nice little stroll with our friends who are going to show them the entrance of Schonberghohle. This, again, is of crucial importance. If we can find out where this cave is (possibly already -400m : 200m deep to a 200m deep pitch), then we could feasibly begin explorations on the Monday. We'll probably have to re-rig the cave with shinier rope even before we consider dropping the big pitch. Lots of experience to be gained by our newcomers.
The Hirlatz explorations cannot take place until the locals are available, and this will not be until the weekend of the 4/5th August. This will allow us the best part of a week to get ourselves established and fit. However, most of you should be aware of the situation regarding the Hirlatz. In simple terms it is this: pushing the ends of the cave will involve some very hard caving and possibly quite technical vertical shite. The shafts/avens were not pushed by the locals when they discovered them. Why is this? Possibly because they're mere light-weights? Hmmn, me thinks not. They're hard as nails, that lot. The route to this part of the cave really does sound pretty harsh, but it leads into the biggest passage in the entire 85km long monster (70m diameter in places!). One of the reasons that they're happy for us to push it is because it's wet and miserable where it goes vertical, and we use plastic suits and are not averse to using shit-loads of re-belays and deviations in order to stay dry. This is to be something of a joint-venture, in as much as we need the lads to take us to the site anyway. I don't know how much time they want to stay underground: it may be a day trip, or it may be for the duration. They may want to take over when we get there. We'll only know when we meet up with them. For a number of reasons we're going to have to be restrictive on who can actually be involved at the sharp end on this one. Logistics, politics, and common sense all influence who can and can't be one of the gay campers in the Hirlatz. One thing is for certain: I'm not particularly looking forward to having to decide who can and who cannot be involved. This is something that will have to be decided upon nearer the time, so please don't anybody hassle me about it, because I really don't know what's going to happen. The cave itself is the local equivalent of Ease Gill: i.e, lots of potholes draining into a gigantic cave. (Un)fortunately, none of these pots have yet been connected, so we're stuck with the one entrance. It's gated and jealously guarded, in true Welsh caving style (but with a twat of a walk to the entrance), so if anyone gets an opportunity to do day trips into the place then there are many Brits who would be green with envy. Oh, yes, nearly forgot: some of you may be asked to provide support for the campers here, in the form of helping hump tackle bags in!
If anyone needs to purchase kit, then what I suggest is the following. Obviously you should support your local caving shop, but there are certain things that I may be able to get somewhat cheaper. I'm not going to say what these things are here, because I don't intend getting banned from the shops as well as the clubs, but best you call me direct. Then I suggest you find out what sizes you want, find out how much you'd pay for them, and then get back to me. I'm not prepared to arse around: if you definitely want me to get something then I'll need a cheque payable to whoever it is and that's it. I don't make anything out of you, and I'll expect some discretion from you in return. Simple.
The expedition fees will be £40 to buy tapes +carbide +anchors +maillons +First Aid kit+ underground kit, etc. Cheques payable to the Caving Expedition Fund, and sent to Greg Brock, the Treasurer. He's going to forward his address to you all when he's available. Caving Insurance is essential (BCRA is standard, but some people have had very bad experiences with them - ask Snablet and Anette), and we may need to prove to the locals that we have this prior to entering the Hirlatzhohle.
Can I have some initial thoughts of who is going to have vehicle space available? At this stage, would Mister Wilton Jones like to co-ordinate the travellers? He's driven there before and is always hassling me about various things, so thought this might help relieve the pressure from me! So, would everyone like to take a note of everyone else's e-mail addresses and bombard Ian with information? Cheers.
Mike: need to know who is coming from the Southampton end. Also, we may need the camping kit, so stop hoarding it! (Unless the Mazeways plan comes to fruition).
Tim L: Need you to chase up the Cardiff gang and finalise who is coming.
Greg: Bolts? All lengths, please, chap.
Everyone: invite anyone you know at this stage, as the Descent article hasn't made it into this issue. So much for my last-minute recruitment drive!
I'll bring my Bosch Drill, but it's going to be difficult getting it to leave my sight! Can anyone else get hold of one? In addition, if I can get hold of one of those Pelican boxes, does someone feel like building a hard-core battery for it? I'll provide whatever it needs, but am a bit crap at the technical side!
Survey kit: Need to scrounge at least two sets, and get hold of notebooks. Any thoughts?
Emergency kit: may be worth the BEC boys approaching the MRO as per usual.
Photo kit: Remember, we need decent slide shows for the BCRA Conference, as we've got a reputation to uphold!
Any other thoughts that you have for the information pack please let me know: it's easy enough to update.
Ciao,
Joel.